Tourist in Iraqi Kurdistan: Why and How I Decided to Go

Iraq. A combat zone. A geopolitical flashpoint between the U.S. and Iran. The only place I’ve ever been shot at. Naturally, the perfect destination for The Great Gallivanting.

Deciding to Go

To be clear, I didn’t go to Federal Iraq—the part with Baghdad, Fallujah, and Mosul—the places etched into the American psyche after two decades of war. I went to Iraqi Kurdistan, an autonomous region with a history and culture distinct from the rest of the country, rooted in the broader Kurdish homeland spanning parts of Iraq, Iran, Turkey, and Syria.

Kurdistan was relatively safe when I visited. A few YouTubers had already paved the way, and I’d had looked forward to this part of the journey since Jo and I first dreamed up The Great Gallivanting. We even considered Baghdad if the situation allowed. It didn’t.

After October 7th, Jo became (rightfully) nervous about going to a Level 4 Travel Advisory country. Her concerns (no military backup, Iranian-aligned militias, rocket attacks) were valid. But I had my mind set. I’d never made it to Kurdistan during my time in the military, and I was too close to forgo it now.

Preparing for the Week

My time in Iraq shaped how I packed for the entire trip. No English logos, neutral colors, nothing that screamed “American” or “military.” I planned routes with easy access to the region, flying through Turkey or Jordan, both countries with decent relations with Iraq and a shared interest in the fight against Islamic State.

I did more than watch vlogs. I contacted an old friend at the U.S. Embassy in Baghdad who I’d deployed with. He said Kurdistan was safer than when we were there, though still risky. Another friend working for U.S. Central Command said I’d probaly be fine. The militia groups were shooting at the Coalition these days, not randomly into cities or targeting random travellers. He even asked me to check out a local pizza place we hadn't manage to see during our deployment. Another friend, a First Sergeant who served in the Iraq Civil War, thought I was crazy. Even so, helped me plan out my security precautions (which included updating his chain of command on my movements) and asked me to keep him updated. If things went south, at least I had a lifeline.

Getting There

Flying to Erbil from Amman on Royal Jordanian was easy, direct, and expensive (thank you, airline miles). I had originally planned to stay two days, but that turned into a week after I found a cheap flight to Istanbul a few days later. It actually worked better with my overall plan..

Even though I could receive a visa on arrival, I applied for an e-visa ahead of time, just in case my military record raised flags. It was approved without issue. Important note: the Kurdistan visa doesn’t grant access to the rest of Iraq. For that, I’d have needed a second visa that I could only get on arrival at the airport in Baghdad. While I wanted to visit Baghdad, I didn't want to take the chance of being denied entry to Iraq when I could easily travel Iraqi Kurdistan on an e-visa.

Telling (or Not Telling) People

I didn’t tell my family I was in Iraq. They would only worry or provide unsolicited opinions. After all, they only knew what the news had fed them for twenty years.

On the road, though, I told everyone. Travelers found it fascinating, and one even considered joining. He bailed (for solid personal reasons). His loss.

Jo knew. I gave her updates from the Kurdish mountains while she soaked in the Australian sun. The First Sergeant tracked my every move. He even gave grid coordinates to a Coalition checkpoint just in case. If anything happened, at least someone in CENTCOM would know.

My mom guessed it. When she asked where I was for Christmas, I vaguely said "the region." She asked, "Is it Iraq?" I had to laugh. She didn’t seem too concerned, though it probably said something about me that Iraq was her first guess. She figured I’d been around the block when it came to terrorism and risk. Fair enough.

My dad, on the other hand, was a different story. I told him I was in “Kurdistan.” I figured he would assume it was just aone of the ’Stans, which he did...at first. He eventually pieced it together, but by then, I had already been there for two days, and there was nothing he could do except ask me to send pictures.

Getting a Guide

I’d only planned on seeing Erbil, specifically the Citadel, before moving on. But with an extra five days, I opted for a guide from Iraqi Kurdistan Guide and let them plan a three-day itinerary.

I didn't speak Kurdish (at now I only know one word), and Google Translate didn’t offer offline access to both dialects, so a guide was the best way to go. He showed me the region, brought me to great restaurants, and made it easy to relax and enjoy one of the most beautiful regions of the world.

That said, I kept my hotel in Erbil the entire time, mostly for peace of mind. If I ever returned, I wouldn't, but for my first combat zone as a tourist, it was a good call. Besides, that meant I could leave most of my stuff in the hotel rather than haul all of my travel possessions in the back of my guide's SUV.

Psyching Myself Up

I didn’t rally need a psyche myself up to go to Iraq. I wasn’t nervous. Iraqi Kurdistan felt familiar in a strange way. Besides, after Amman, I was ready for anything. Nothing could have been worse than my experience there.

And I’d be in Iraq for Christmas. Not my first time, but my first as a civilian. So when someone asks, “What was Christmas in Iraq like?” I can say, “Which one?” I have been described as crazy a few times in my life for some of my life choices, but I have always loved a good story. And what was a better story than sightseeing in Iraq for Christmas?

After all, The Great Gallivanting is all about stories in the end. I didn't (and don't) need to psyche myself up for a good story.

This would be one of my favourite stories of the entire trip.