As I Wrote it Then: My First Time Visiting Madrid

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This is a post about Jo’s and my first visit to Madrid during The Great Gallivanting. It is exactly as we wrote it back then, unrefined, unedited, and a far cry from my writings today. Looking back, it is hard to believe we were so new to all things Spain! This country has long become both of our favourite, and I have used it as a base for travels many times. Madrid is truly the heart of Spain, something I have only embraced more and more as the years go by. From its busy tourist attractions, quiet corners, bullfighting fairs, and chaotic morning cafés, Madrid is one of my favourite cities on the planet.

I hope you enjoy our first look at Madrid. I go into more detail about our time here in my book, The Great Gallivanting: A Journey of Realisation and Discovery Across the World, available here. I also will have an entire chapter dedicated to the city in my second book, Aficionado: Discovering Spain Through the Art of Bullfighting, in 2026.

You can also watch our first YouTube video from the city here.

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Madrid was a lesson in Spanish culture. The city center is pretty compact, and we stayed right in the middle of it just a short walk from Plaza Mayor.

Statue of Philip III in Madrid' Plaza Mayor

We did our best to eat local as much as we could. At Taperia de Malasana, we had a delicious plato de dia of pumpkin cream soup, pork knuckle, and fried chicken breast, at Don Calamar we enjoyed chicken and pork paella, and at several different cafes we enjoyed breakfasts of croissant mixto and espresso. We couldn't resist two chains, though, 100 Montaditos and Las Muns, where we enjoyed EXTREMELY cheap food and drinks (with the latter having some amazing empanadas).

We attended several museums during our stay. The Madrid history museum was a traditional history museum detailing Madrid's social and cultural history, including a temporary exhibit commemorating the Madrid municipal police force. The Museum of San Isidro was a Madrid history museum as well, but was much more focused on the anthropology side of things. While we both enjoyed the Madrid history museum more, the anthropology was still and interesting look at Madrid's history. We also toured the Catedral de la Almudena across from the Royal Palace. This cathedral was impressive not just because of its size and beauty, but because it incorporated Gothic, neo-Romantic, and neoclassical designs (because of changes in the architects who preferred one style over the next).

We took a free walking tour (well, free plus tips) from TourAndFriends sponsored by our hostel, and it did not disappoint! It took right around 2.5 hours and hit the major historical highlights of Madrid. From royal gossip to modern architecture, our tour guide really earned her tip! After the walking tour, we hit up the Museo Naval, which celebrated the Spanish Navy. If you are ever in Madrid, definitely pay the 3 Euro to see this museum! It has lots of artifacts, a free audioguide, and clearly lays out the impressive history of the Spanish Armada.

On our last full day, we decided to get out of the city and went for a hike outside the Royal Residence. We spent nearly all day and afternoon out there wandering the paths and woods. It wasn't an especially rigorous hike, but we both enjoyed our time away from the hustle and bustle of city life after the past several weeks. Plus, Jo managed to have us stumble upon the Civil Guard's K-9 training center (the back side of it, anyways)!

We also attended a second bullfight. Jack wanted to go because he was enamoured with it after Pamplona, and Jo wanted to compare what we saw in Pamplona to another region in Spain, especially because we had already seen one and no longer had "sticker shock." We watched a matador get gored in the leg and carried off during his second bullfight. He was the senior matador, which really conveyed the seriousness of the sport, even with a weakened bull (we would later learn he is doing well after surgery). We also saw a bullfighter that we saw in Pamplona, Borja Jimenez. He has quite the bravado and showmanship, and we both noted differences in his two performances.

Something that shocked us both was the number of children at the bullfight, both Spanish and not. We understood the Spanish children, as it is a part of their culture, but the non-Spanish tourists bringing their children shocked us both. It must just be "one of those things" you do.

Something that spoke to us both: after the bullfight, two Spanish young men stopped us to thank us for coming. They believed it rare for Americans to embrace their culture by attending a bullfight, despite having opinions on the subject, and were appreciative that we would give them a chance. We were both grateful for the sentiment and disappointed that our country has a prejudicial reputation with another culture.

Where we stayed: Mola Hostel

 Jo's Favourite: Borja Jimenez (the torero!)

Jack's Favourite: Bullfight