Dispatches - 3 August 2025 - On the Spanish Frontier

In this Dispatch:

- Weekly Dispatch

- Call for Participation

- Newest YouTube Videos

Weekly Dispatch

It's a quiet afternoon in the Spanish campo, the term for the vast open spaces occupied by farmland and ranches. As I write this dispatch, I'm tucked into the small shaded corner of my hostel's terrace about two-thirds of the way up the hill on which the tiny town of Castrojeriz is built. It was a cold 10C (50F) this morning, but now the temperature is pushing 32C (90F). Inside is the clang of beer and wine classes, the chatter of locals who come to the hostel bar every evening as their designated hang-out spot, and the sound of the espresso machine making sure the Spanish patrons can stay awake long enough to eat their famously late dinner.

In the week since my last dispatch, I have experienced two such towns. This one, Castrojeriz, and Belorado. I could walk from one side of the other of each in just ten minutes, but along the way I would pass centuries-old churches, numerous hotels and albergues, and locals going about their business. To be honest, I don't understand why these towns exist in modern times. That isn't an insult; it is a comment that rings true in my own hometown as well. Other than supporting itself, there is not much reason for it to be here. The Muslim empire no longer threatens expansion, there are no major supermarket or transport hubs for the outlying farms, and for many on the Camino de Santiago, they are towns you pass through on the way to the next one. Even so, they are lovely, quiet getaways with insights into unique and little-told aspects of Spanish culture and history.

Burgos, my intermediate stop, was a different story. It is the provincial capital of the province of Burgos. There, I saw the famed Burgos Cathedral (and paid the 10 EUR to tour it...), saw the final resting place of the city's patron saint, San Lesmes, untouched for almost a thousand years, and was treated to decently-cheap food and local restaurants away from pilgrims.

In one bar, I listened as an old man conversed with the bartender about the tourism situation in Burgos. They lamented the fact that the city was becoming overcrowded with people from not just the Camino, but Madrid and Barcelona, too. Local tourism, that is, tourism from Spaniards, in the provincial capital has exploded in recent years, a consequence of both post-pandemic realisations and the overcrowding and expense of the country's large cities. This tourism explosion was obvious to me as a casual traveller. It wasn't just the crowds, but the expense I saw away from the tourism centres. Hostels were 30+ EUR a night, a menu del día was 20+ EUR, and most churches charged 2-3 EUR to visit.

The longer I travel the world, the more aware I am of the cost of tourism on local residents. It is a fine balance of bringing in much-needed tourism dollars and cratering to the demands of increased tourism. Some cities, like Tulum, Mexico, wrestle with identity crises when the balance is upset, while others, like Pamplona, Spain, have adapted well. I have become acutely conscious of the impact writing about my travels could have if I were to make it big like Hemingway (after all, it was he who incidentally put Pamplona on the map). Even in Morocco, the iron ore train has become an adventure traveller's experience rather than an illegal way for people to move across the country. It's only a matter of time before either the government cracks down on illegal passengers (thus, eradicating one of the few options for frontier peoples to get to the coast) or a cottage industry emerges to support the growing demand (and, in the process, turning a necessity of life for locals into a casual getaway for tourists).

In less philosophical news, my knee is feeling much better. Yesterday was the first day I awoke and it wasn't in pain, and today I walked quite a distance with just my patellar brace on. Hopefully all will be well by the time the final stretch into Santiago de Compostela arrives so I can walk into the cathedral at the end of this millennia-old pilgrimage.

I also mapped out Turkey this week. I won't be hiking the Lycian Way; instead, I will follow the path of Islam's roots from the country's southeastern border with Iraq to its northwestern border with Bulgaria. My path will take me through twelve cities/towns. So much for my promise to slow-roll my next trip through Turkey.

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Call for Participation

I have two guided treks coming up later this year, each less than two weeks. I am seeking one, ONE, additional person to join me on each of these unique excursions. I promise you; they will be experiences like no other! (Ok, I put the emphasis on one additional person, but to be honest, I'm open to more if we can make it work!)

Zagros Mountain Trail - 15-29 November 2025 - $2500

This trail is a historic trade route through the Kurdish mountainside. The original route travelled from Iran, through Iraq, and into Turkey, but has long since fallen away since modern technology and roads have taken over moving goods, services, and people across countries. In Iraq, however, a private organisation is restoring the trade route to be a hiking trail. This trek will cross the majority of the trail, starting and ending in Erbil, the capital of Iraqi Kurdistan. The price is all-inclusive (including airport transfer and English-speaking guide), except for flights, visas, and tips. Contact me if you are interested, and I can send you more details.

If you want to go, but are (understandably) concerned about going to Iraq as a tourist, shoot me a message and we can talk. I went to Iraqi Kurdistan as a tourist in December 2023, and it was beyond safe. While Iraq as a whole has a dangerous reputation, the semi-autonomous region of Iraqi Kurdistan is wholly different from Federal Iraq. It has its own security forces, visa regime, and political situation. Is the risk there? Sure, but I'd much rather walk around Erbil than Chicago.

Sahara/Atlas Trek - 12-24 December 2025 - €2340 + €69 Booking Fee

This trek is a bespoke adventure put together especially for me. We will start and end in Marrakech, a beautiful city that is stereotypical of the Middle East and North Africa. From there, we will take transportation out to the desert and the mountains for wonderful hikes and beautiful views. We will occasionally take transportation to new areas, as the Atlas Mountains are the barrier between the desert and the rest of the country. The point of this trek is to explore Morocco's pre-modern history and culture, including nights in Berber camps, former military outposts, and a few climbs up mountains. The price is mostly-inclusive (welcome to Morocco), with a few meals at the beginning and end on our own and tips excluded.

I COULD REALLY USE A PARTNER ON THIS ONE. To do this trek as a solo traveller is going to be expensive. While I am going either way, even just one person going will SIGNIFICANTLY reduce the strain on the relationship between me and my bank account! If it entices you more, I will be flying to Madrid, Spain, on 24 December to enjoy Christmas and New Year's in one of my favourite cities, so I can play tour guide if you want! Contact me if you are interested, and I can send you more details.

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YouTube Videos from This Week

Wayfarer Extra: Plaza de Toros de Las Ventas | Take a tour of Madrid's famous bullring with me as I share insights, commentary, and personal experiences from this very arena. 

Wayfarer Vlog: La Fiesta de San Fermín | Join me for the world-famous Fiesta de San Fermín, including parades, sangria-soaked ceremonies, and, yes, running with the bulls.

Wayfarer Vlog: Beginnings and Madid | I begin the Wayfarer Expedition. After too much time away, I finally return to Spain, touring its capital and preparing for the journey ahead.